Marathon

Reflections of a long distance runner: the silent messenger, the unwavering spirit striding, soaring. 

Words of upliftment arrive from the legendary runners of Ethiopia and Kenya. With eyes fixed on the horizon and legs carried by belief, the Spring Summer collection becomes an ode to long journeys and life missions. A celebration of soulful pursuits and inspired movement. 

Holistic commitment is felt throughout the collection with hand-making techniques honed over generations. Precious time is imbued in Tibeb fabric woven by artisans in Addis Ababa. Raffia is hand-embroidered on skirts and vests in a disrupted animal print motif, while intricate stud and bead stripes detail womenswear tailoring. Macrame net vests and skirts made from beads in Ghanaian artisanal glass and sonorous silver echo the calabash instrument. The sounds reverberate until consistent practice creates an unconscious rhythm -  the point where mantras repeat without effort, where routine transcends to a tranquil flow. 

Passages over the hills are imagined in silhouettes between shepherd and equestrian: check outerwear, rawhide skirts, bouclé knitwear, and calfskin riding boots made in partnership with Himco in Italy. Telluric wonders continue with cheetah printed cowhide and tailoring in horsehair canvas. This season, sheepskin-lined loafers from UGG round out an offering for restful interludes.  

The codes of Wales Bonner remain steadfast: signature shirting is issued in gradient stripes, while hybrid tailoring in earthen brown wool is enlivened by radiant blue satin and sportswear finishes. Meanwhile, the ongoing partnership with adidas Originals yields a sporty fluorescence and futurity in harmony with Mac coats and British checks.

At the 1960 Olympics in Rome, animated crowds rejoice in Abebe Bikila’s moonlit triumph. Victory celebrations see Savile Row tailoring, produced in partnership with Anderson and Shepard, accentuated by raw silk and woven gold buttons. Celebrations of Africa’s first medalist, storied evenings in draped satin dresses, ceremonial necklaces in semi-precious carnelian and jade stone: for courage, serenity, and balance. 

“That’s the long distance runner, the quietness is loud too” 

David Hammons, 1994. 

Mastery and commitment are again celebrated in the musical programme. The soundtrack is produced by James William Blades and Grace Wales Bonner, featuring Ethiopian artist HaddinQo performing live on the traditional Masinqo stringed instrument. The show music also includes a contribution from Hama, a multi-instrumentalist from Niger signed to the Sahel Sounds record label. His expansive synthesizer compositions accompany a set from Kenyan artist DJ Boboss, a soundsystem pioneer with pure eclecticism and a singular craft.  An array of sounds - ancestral groove, future visions - dancing together. 

Bibliography

Crawley, Michael. Out of Thin Air: Running Wisdom and Magic from Above the Clouds in Ethiopia. London: Bloomsbury, 2022.

Finn, Adharanand. Running with the Kenyans: Discovering the secrets of the fastest people on Earth. London: Faber, 2013. 

Girma, Mohammed. “Whose Meaning? The Wax and Gold Tradition as a Philosophical Foundation for an Ethiopian Hermeneutic.” Sophia 50, no. 1 (2010): 175–87. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11841-010-0201-9.

Hammons, David. Yardbird Suite, Hammons 93. Edited by Deborah Menaker Rothschild and David L. Smith. Williamstown, MA: Williams College Museum of Art, 1994.

Thiong’o, Ngūgī wa. The River Between. London, Ibadan, Nairobi: Heinemann Educational Books, 1973.